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Portage Pass in Whittier: Quite possibly my favorite trail

If friends are visiting and I can only choose one hike to show off Alaska’s beauty, Portage Pass is it. It’s short and only moderate in difficulty, includes a fun trip through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel to Whittier, and packs incredible views even if you only hike hike partway up to the pass.

Once upon a time you could see hulking Portage Glacier from the Portage Glacier Visitor Center, now known as the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center. Nowadays, however, taking the tunnel to Whittier and then hiking Portage Pass is your only option for getting a glimpse of the glacier from land.

Long-time locals sometimes find it sad to see just how much the glacier has receded, but that doesn’t take away from the area’s stunning beauty.

This is hike 66 in Day Hiking Southcentral Alaska. 

Round Trip: 5.2 milesNearest community: Whittier
Elevation gain: 935 feetTypical season: June to October
Parking fee: No feeNearby trails: Horsetail Falls, Emerald Cove/Shotgun Cove

From Anchorage, take the Seward Highway south about 50 miles. At mile marker 79, follow signs for the Whittier Access Road and take the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel to Whittier. There is a toll (currently $13 for passenger vehicles). You only pay the toll as you go into Whittier; coming back out is free.

Tunnel traffic is one-way, with traffic queuing up and alternating directions every half-hour. There may be longer delays when a train passes through the tunnel, so bring a good book or a deck of cards. My recollection is that there’s no reliable cell service here, so make sure you’ve coordinated with your travel/hiking buddies in advance.

Once in Whittier, take the first right turn across the train tracks (it should be marked as forest/trail access with a brown sign) and follow posted signs for the trailhead. If you make it all the way into Whittier, you missed your turn.

Hiking Portage Pass

From the trailhead, the Portage Pass trail starts out as an old Jeep road that climbs roughly 800 feet to the pass in 0.8 mile. That’s steep enough to be a challenge, but it’s worth it. Make sure to turn around for great views of Whittier and Passage Canal.

Once you hit Portage Pass itself, you’ll see beautiful Portage Glacier glistening in the distance, on the far side of Portage Lake. But the trail doesn’t end here: You can continue on another 1.5 miles of easy, sometimes winding trail down to the rocky beach at the lake’s edge.

If you see a boxy ship on the water that’s the M/V Ptarmigan, operated by Portage Glacier Cruises. The Ptarmigan is the only motorized craft allowed on the lake, making five trips between Portage and the glacier every day. A park ranger rides aboard to narrate the sights for visitors.

I’ve been to Portage Pass a number of times over the years; here’s a newspaper article I wrote about how the valley has changed.

Check the Weather First

Even though the actual pass is only 800 feet high, bad weather and high winds can be particularly brutal here. Because it’s such a drive to get here, I recommend checking the weather forecast and the FAA webcam in Whittier before committing to the trip.

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