Fort McGilvray: A great side trail from Caines Head, or an adventure of its own
Ruined and picturesque all at once, Fort McGilvray is among the most accessible WWII military emplacements you’ll find around Alaska. However, just reaching the trailhead is an adventure: You must either hike more than 5 miles, paddle a kayak, or hire a water taxi to get there.
(This featured image, above, is the entrance to one of the bunkers near the fort.)
This is hike 81 in my guidebook Day Hiking Southcentral Alaska.
| Round Trip: 4 miles | Nearest community: Seward |
| Elevation gain: 1,300 feet | Typical season: May to September |
| Parking fee: No fee | Nearby trails: Tonsina Point, North Beach/Caines Head |
Fort McGilvray Trailhead Directions
The North Beach of Caines Head State Recreation Area serves as the trailhead for this hike, and you have three ways of getting here: You can paddle a kayak from Seward, hire a water taxi from Seward, or hike all the way from Seward to North Beach — so long as you time your hike with the tides. I suppose some people might sail here, too, but that particular adventure is out of reach for most people.
If you want to rent kayaks in Seward, join a guided kayaking tour, or hire a water taxi, there are lots of providers and most of them are good: Go ahead and Google for options. The one warning I’ll give is that I’ve found Millers Landing to have very spotty reliability. Sometimes they’re great, and sometimes they’re not.
If you do decide to paddle the approach to the trailhead on your own, please make sure you have the appropriate sea kayaking gear and skillset.
Hiking to Fort McGilvray
From the North Beach of Caines Head State Recreation Area, look for a faded, triangular trail marker at the south end of the beach. This marks the start of the trail to Fort McGilvray, which winds into the trees past an outhouse. The trail follows an old roadbed, so walking is fairly easy except for when the shale that covers the trail is so deep, it feels like walking through sand.
At 0.1 mile you’ll pass a placard that honors the soldiers who served here. Most of this hike takes place under tree cover, but this spot has a splendid overlook of the water.
Just before 1.1 miles from the trailhead, you’ll reach a signed intersection. Continue left to reach the fort.
At about 1.6 miles you’ll pass a pedestal which holds a copy of the touching Pilgrim’s Poem. From there, the trail descends through the remains of the garrison that supported the fort. You’ll know when you reach the fort itself: It’s set into the side of the hill. Bring a flashlight or headlamp to explore the dark side rooms, and watch your step; there are holes in the floor.
Don’t miss the great views over the water from the old six-inch gun emplacements on either side of the fort, and keep an eye out for concrete buildings — or in some cases, just the remains of the concrete foundations — being slowly digested by the rainforest.
Photos from Fort McGilvray, Seward
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Lisa Maloney
A long-time Alaskan, Lisa has written three award-winning guidebooks including "Day Hiking Southcentral Alaska" and "50 Hikes Around Anchorage." She also served as senior editor of Alaska magazine and has written hundreds of newspaper columns and magazine articles about her adventures around the state. Learn more about her at http://maloneywrites.com.
