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Horsetail Falls in Whittier, Alaska: Berry heaven and a waterfall, sort of

Although the Horsetail Falls trail does take you within viewing distance of a pretty waterfall, I would argue that stunning views over Passage Canal, from the very end of the trail, are the main attraction here. This hike is pretty easy but does get brushy in summer and fall, and a profusion of berries means bear sightings are common here.

This is hike 65 in Day Hiking Southcentral Alaska.

Distance: 2 miles round-tripNearest community: Whittier
Elevation gain: 570 feetTypical season: May to September
Parking fee: NoneNearby trails: Portage Pass, Emerald Cove

Horsetail Falls Trailhead Directions

From Anchorage, take the Seward Highway south about 50 miles. At mile marker 79, follow signs for the Whittier Access Road and take the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel to Whittier. There is a toll going in to Whittier (currently $13 for passenger vehicles). Coming back out is free.

Tunnel traffic is one-way, with traffic queuing up and alternating directions every half-hour. There may be longer delays when a train passes through the tunnel, and there is no reliable cell service on the Portage side of the tunnel.

Once in Whittier, look for an early right turn onto Whittier Street, just as you’re driving into town. At an awkward four-way intersection, continue straight onto Blackstone Road and past the Buckner Building, an abandoned cement barracks. Follow signs for Horsetail Falls as you veer right onto unpaved Shotgun Cove Road, then take the first right onto Cove Creek Road. Park in a spacious but somewhat uneven gravel pullout at the end of the road.

Work is also ongoing for a new connector trail that will connect a city park in Whittier to the existing Horsetail Falls trail.

Hiking to Horsetail Falls

There is a small gate at the end of the parking area; the trail starts here on an old gravel roadbed that quickly transitions to boardwalk interspersed with the occasional patch of rocks or tree roots. Watch for lots of berry bushes beside the trail, including salmonberries and high-bush blueberries.

As you might expect the bears love those berries too, so bear encounters are common here in the fall.

After about 0.7 miles, the boardwalks get narrower and the vistas open up to show nearby meadows. The following pictures give you an idea of what the trail looks like in late August, after a stretch of very rainy weather.

Where IS That Waterfall?!

Keep an eye out to the west (hiker’s right) for Horsetail Falls, which is beautiful but honestly, not that impressive at a distance. If you happen to hike during a stretch of sunny summer weather, there’s really not much waterfall to see.

I’ve been told Horsetail Falls is more impressive during the spring, when melting snow pushes the water levels high, but I’ve never done the hike at that time of year.

I have to admit it took me years to even figure out which waterfall is supposed to be Horsetail Falls, since it’s not marked on any map I’ve ever seen. And really, both of those waterfalls look like they could be the tail of a horse, don’t they? Please pardon the mist — we’re “enjoying” the rainiest August on record.

horsetail falls, with markers explaining which waterfall it actually is

I think the payoff is much nicer if you keep hiking for another quarter-mile or so, until the trail ends at a platform with stunning views over Whittier and the bright blue waters of Passage Canal just beyond. If weather permits. The first picture is during good weather; the second one was taken from the exact same place, and you can just barely spot the lines of a visiting cruise ship through the fog.

looking over whittier from horsetail falls
Looking out over Whittier and Passage Canal on a clear day. Now you see it…
looking over whittier from the horsetail falls trail, on a very cloudy day
…and now you don’t. You can just spot the outline of a massive cruise ship at dock, and that’s about it.

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